Sunday, November 9, 2008

Injury Report

Perhaps I shouldn't jinx myself by writing a title like that. Not many injuries to report quite yet, just little annoying ones, like hip bruises and rib calluses from the surfboard, feet cuts and shoulder aches. I wake up and they annoy me though, and I just woke up.

I don't know why I keep swallowing so much water. I've been pounded on the head by sets before and lost in the washing machine of waves, but this time around I seem to get caught with my mouth open. Salt water in the belly is upsetting. Mixed with coffee and chocolate - breakfast of champions.

Looking out at the waves again today and the people staring at the waves, and every morning so far it's nice because it feels like we're in this together. There goes another cat riding his bike through the grass in the yard in front of me to stare a the ocean. He must be 50.

I suppose my generation will be the first to support the old women in the water. I haven't seen any over 40, ever. If I have to move here and practice for the next 7 years so I can be in the water at 40 and not get pounded, well, then, I do what I have to do to keep pushing the female sex to the next level.

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